Book Review: The Theory of Investment Value

John Burr Williams wrote The Theory of Investment Value as his dissertation. First published in 1938, this book is one of the classics of investing. I will not say that the book is a fun read, for it is not. It is dry and difficult. Half the pages are filled with equations. However, this book was a landmark and it remains relevant. This book is far too large and detailed for me to describe in detail, so I will present but a few of the highlights.

John Burr Williams invented the dividend discount model of stock valuation. Previous economists and stock analysts had only guessed at what the proper P/E valuation was for a company or what the proper dividend yield was. Also, most previous analysts ignored the sustainability of the dividend. In his book, Williams made the point that a company could be valued by calculating the present value of the future dividends (discounting those future dividends at the risk-free interest rate).

However, companies sometimes pay dividends that are unsustainable or that are below their true dividend-paying ability. Williams thus showed how to calculate the sustainable dividend payout. This is also known as owner earnings—it is a measure of the earnings after subtracting necessary reinvestment.

Williams also shows that this can be applied even to companies that do not pay a dividend. He made the point that a company increases in value once it has made money, and thus dividends are not necessary (the stock will increase in value proportional to how much would have been paid out in dividends). (As history has since shown, though, companies that do not pay dividends tend to do worse than those that do, simply because they may reinvest the money unwisely.) Williams thus laid the groundwork for what has later become discounted cash flow (DCF) models of valuation. For some types of companies, dividend discount models are still useful today.

Besides this, the last section of the book is a series of examples, ranging from Phoneix Insurance to GM and US Steel. Even if you only read this section, the book is worth the price. The problems facing investors 70 years ago remain today. We would be wise to learn from the past. By all means buy this book and read it.

Disclosure: This article was originally written two years ago and published elsewhere.

Zopa USA is here!

Zopa is now in the USA. For those not in the know, Zopa is the British version of Prosper.com (they actually pioneered person to person lending). Unfortunately, because of US regulation, Zopa cannot do in the US what it does in Britain. Rather, it can only offer a CD at 5.1% while letting credit unions do the actual lending. Not very p2p, but a 5.1% return beats the -1% return I have received on my Prosper.com loans over the last 1.6 years.

Random fact: ZOPA stands for “zone of possible agreement

Disclosure: I ‘invested’ money in p2p loans at Prosper.com. I have no connection to either Prosper or Zopa.

Consumer Credit Crunch! Horrid Loan Losses!

Today is a bad day. For the first time the return on my Prosper.com personal loan portfolio went negative. Since I started lending on Prosper in June 2006 I have lost money. A small amount of money, yes, but still money. And this despite most of my loans being to people with good credit.

Another bad thing is that because Prosper is slow to sell off bad debts, I cannot realize the losses I have suffered for tax purposes and will end up with good-sized taxable gains. I am now going to start slowly withdrawing my money from Prosper. If it weren’t for the negative tax consequences I would probably stick with it a bit longer.

It is Year End Tax Planning Time

There is only one month left until the end of the year. It is now time to buy a copy of Turbotax or Taxcut and to work out how much you will owe in your taxes. I just downloaded my copy of Taxcut 2007 and have started to enter estimates into it to find out what my AGI and MAGI will be. This kind of tax estimation becomes important as your income gets close to $100,000 a year and it becomes even more important as your income hits $150,000 a year (all numbers I use are for married filing jointly).

Here are some important numbers to think about:

  • Above $100,000 you lose the ability to convert a normal IRA to a Roth IRA. If you have already done that this year you want to make sure your MAGI stays under $100,000, otherwise you will have to recharacterize the converted Roth IRA into a normal IRA.
  • Between $100,000 and $150,000 you start to lose the active rental real estate owner loss deduction. This is a big one if you own rental real estate, as depreciation charges will usually give you a taxable loss even if you are cash flow positive.
  • Above $150,000 you start to lose the ability to contribute to a Roth IRA
  • Above $150,000 if you have few itemized deductions and above $100,000 if you have many, you run the risk of getting hit with the AMT.

Tax planning should be year-round. I keep a spreadsheet for that purpose before the tax programs become available. But now is crunch time and it will soon be too late to adjust your income. The recent stock and bond market turmoil gives ample opportunity to harvest taxable losses. While you need to wait 31 days to buy back any sold stock you can buy a broad-market ETF to maintain your market exposure in the meantime. If what you sold was not a broad-market ETF you run almost no risk of the IRS questioning your actions.

If your income is too high this year and you own rental real estate you bought in the last couple years, you could choose to sell it off at a loss. The bad real estate market has already reduced the value of your holding so why not reap the tax benefits of a realized loss?

Disclosure: I am not an attorney or accountant or tax professional. These are just my opinions and not individualized advice. Please consult a CPA or tax attorney for tax advice.

Remember, Remember, to Tax-Loss Harvest in November

Tis the season to be jolly and to sell losing positions. Actually, it is always a good time to sell losing positions. But now is about as late as it can be for harvesting tax losses, waiting 31 days so as not to trigger the wash sale rule, and then re-purchasing the sold assets before the new year.

I followed my own advice, selling a number of stocks that I may buy back later. At the moment, my main goal is to reduce my taxable income for the year. I sold the Vanguard Value ETF [[VTV]] and bought the very similar iShares S&P 500 Value ETF [[ive]] to replace it. While the ETFs are similar, they are not ‘substantially identical’, and because of that buying one after selling the other does not trigger the wash sale rule. This is another reason why ETFs are great–there are hundreds of them out there that are similar yet not identical. So sell any in which you have large unrealized losses and replace them with similar ETFs. Assuming the similar ETF does not shoot up greatly in 31 days, sell it and buy back the original ETF. The result is realizing a taxable loss while keeping your equity exposure the same.

I also believe in doing a similar thing with stocks, and I just did that myself this morning. Sell those in which you have large unrealized losses and then just wait 31 days to buy them back. If you wish to maintain your equity exposure, you can buy an index fund or ETF in the meantime. On average any profit you lose from selling the stock will be more than outweighed by the lower taxes you will pay.

Now is the time to estimate your AGI for the year and plan what to do about it. If you are a landlord, watch out for the landlord loss deduction limits that phase in at an AGI over $100k. If you saved money in a Roth IRA, watch out for the limits that phase in at a similar income level. Remember, it is your duty as a productive citizen to minimize the taxes you pay!

Disclosure: I am not a tax lawyer or accountant. This is not to be construed as tax advice. Speak to a tax lawyer with at least 200 years’ experience and at least 50 years experience working as head of the IRS and the treasury department before implementing any tax strategy. Otherwise the IRS reserves the right to hunt you down and kill you like the scum that you are. Remember: it is not your money. It is the government’s money. Remember: it is not your life. It is the government’s life. War is peace. Freedom is slavery. Ignorance and cowardice are strength. Or something like that.

The best retirement account for the self-employed

What is the best retirement plan for a self-employed person with no employees and modest income? With SIMPLE IRAs, KEOGH plans, SEP IRAs, and 401(k)s, the choices abound and they are all confusing. Now there is a clear winner.

Without a doubt, the winner is the 401(k), with Roth 401(k) option available, from T. Rowe Price. This is a great option for a few reasons:

  1. Low costs. There are no setup fees. There are no ongoing fees except for a $10 yearly fee for each fund with under $4,000. I would investing in just one fund until it is over $4,000 and then starting other funds for diversification. This should keep fees under $10 per year for the first couple years (you should need no more than a couple different funds).
  2. There are a couple decent index funds and other funds with low expense ratios. I’d prefer there to be more and cheaper index funds, but there are some. I like the International Equity Index Fund (PIEQX) with an expense ratio of 0.50%, the US Total Equity Index Fund (POMIX) with expenses of 0.40%, and I like a little less the target date funds (such as the 2055 fund, TRRNX, with expenses at 0.74%).
  3. Roth 401(k) option. For most people, Roth IRAs and Roth 401(k)s are better than the normal options. With a Roth option, you invest post-tax money. You get no deduction, but your retirement money (including the money you make in it) is never ever taxed again.
  4. 401(k)s allow for greater contributions as a percentage of income (particularly for low-income people) and greater total contributions for high earners than SEP IRAs or SIMPLE IRAs.

For those making a lot of money, it may make since to choose another 401(k) provider that charges higher fees but offers funds with lower expense ratios. While Fidelity offers a good solo 401(k) plan, it currently does not offer the Roth option. If Fidelity does offer that, it would probably be a better choice.

The one problem with 401(k)s is that they were designed for bigger businesses. The paperwork is a hassle but the increased contribution limits relative to SIMPLE and SEP IRAs is worth the effort. Remember to also contribute the maximum to a Roth IRA as well as to a 401(k).

Disclosure: I use T. Rowe Price for my solo 401(k) for my freelance writing business.

Should you buy individual stocks?

Before you go out and start buying stocks on your own, let me say that not everyone should invest on their own. Only those that Ben Graham called ‘enterprising investors’ should do this. Those that fit in the category of ‘defensive investors’ should only own broad-based index funds or ETFs.

If you are not willing to spend at least five hours per week on your investments, then you are a defensive investor. If the thought of losing large amounts of money scares you greatly, then you are a defensive investor. If you do not know anything about investing and do not want to take the time to learn, then you are a defensive investor. If the thought of making a fortune in the stock market makes you giddy, then your emotions will interfere with your intellect, and you would be better off as a defensive investor.

There is nothing wrong with being a defensive investor. There is more to life than investing. If you fit the profile of a defensive investor, then stick your money in a low-cost stock index fund (such as those run by Vanguard). I particularly like Vanguard’s target-date funds. You will not beat the market, but you will do about as well as the market as a whole, and you will have plenty of time to enjoy life.

Now, for those of you who fancy yourselves as enterprising investors. Picking stocks is not for the faint-hearted. There will be times when your stocks will decrease in value. You will need the courage to either hang on to them (if they are still good companies) or sell them (if they are becoming bad companies). If you do wish to continue, though, you should know that value investing is the most tried and true approach to investing in the stock market.

Ben Graham averaged over 20% returns per year for two decades. Besides his two partners, there were four employees of Graham-Newman Investing. Three of those four later made incredible money investing on their own. Walter Schloss was one; he averaged a 16% annual return over 25 years, doubling the average yearly return of the S&P 500 of 8%. Tom Knapp was another; his investment firm doubled the average yearly return of the S&P over 15 years (16% per year). The third was Warren Buffett. Over the last 28 years, his Berkshire Hathaway has averaged over 20% annual returns.

So, if you choose to be an enterprising investor, know that in investing based only on value and price, you will do well. You may not always beat the stock market averages, but if you work hard and are willing to learn from your mistakes, you just might be the next great value investor.

Before you begin buying stocks, think about how much money you have to invest. If you do not have more than $10,000 to invest, then take that money and put it in a low-cost index fund (again, I like Vanguard). If you have less than $10,000, you will not be able to achieve adequate diversification, and the ups and downs of your portfolio will be harder for you to take.

Once you have your $10,000 in the mutual fund, keep it there. As you get more money, you can take that money and buy individual stocks. That way, if you do some really stupid things and lose a lot of money on your individual stocks, you will still have money sitting in your mutual fund. This will also help you sleep at night.

Now, as to buying individual stocks, the key is diversification. There are three kinds of diversification. First, diversify in time. If you buy all your stocks at one time, events that harm the market in general could cause your investments harm. Since you know value investing works in the long run, buying stocks for the rest of your life will give you this diversification. The next kind of diversification is industry diversification. If you were in tech stocks in 2000 you know what I mean. Also, certain industries can do badly for long periods (like the airline industry).

The last kind of diversification is diversification as to country. It is hard to buy many foreign stocks, so I recommend putting some money in an international index fund or two (Vanguard has those as well).

Disclosure: I invest in Vanguard ETFs. I have no connection to the company. My disclosure policy wears a wombat on its head to keep warm.

What is a Company Worth?

I have established my strategy of buying the stock of good companies that for some reason are undervalued by the stock market. Now comes putting that simple strategy into action. The details are a bit harder than the basic strategy.
Returning to my milk analogy, milk has only one way in which it has value–that is, its ‘asset’ of milky goodness. Thus, we can either consume it or sell it off to someone else who would appreciate its milky goodness. Companies are different, though. They too have their asset value, which is the value of all the inventory, machinery, property, patents and other things that could be sold if we shut the company down. In addition to that, they also have earnings power, or the ability to make a profit. So in evaluating companies, we can judge them to be a good or bad value based either on their actual assets or on their future earnings power. We will start with the evaluation of value based on assets.

The father of value investing, Benjamin Graham, wrote a book that all of you should read, The Intelligent Investor. In his book, Graham asserted that a company would be a good buy if it were valued at less than about 2/3 of its total net tangible asset value. Graham excluded patents and other hard to value ‘assets’ from his calculations, so he only counted the ‘hard’ (tangible) assets. To get the net tangible asset value we take the value of all tangible assets and subtract any debt the company owes. This gives us the company’s net worth, which is just like the net worth of a person.

Why isn’t a company selling at 90% of its net tangible asset value a good deal? The reason is that Graham insisted upon having a margin of safety. In other words, some of those ‘assets’ may be overvalued. To avoid situations where the assets are worth little, we want to only buy companies that are selling for far less than we think they are worth.

You may think that this is unlikely, and recently, this has not been very common. However, during bear markets, this happens a lot. The Washington Post Co. was valued by the stock market at only about $80 million in 1973. However, its assets, including television stations, the magazine Newsweek, and the newspaper, could have easily been sold off for hundreds of millions of dollars.

At least one value investor realized the true value of the company, and he bought many shares of Washington Post. His name? Warren Buffet, the most successful investor in the world. Now the Washington Post Co. is valued at over $8 billion in the stock market, giving Buffett a return of over 100x his original investment.

What if the market never realizes the value of the assets of a company, and the company never sells them off? This is not a likely situation. Nowadays, there are many private equity firms that look for such easy money. These companies will buy a majority or large minority stake in a company and then either find better management or sell off the company’s assets for a profit.

In the current market, however, fairly few companies are valued significantly below their assets. That leads us to the second way of valuing companies, which is based on their earnings power. This is much the same way you would evaluate the relative value of a bond or a savings account.

With a bond or savings account, you receive an interest payment that is your payment for loaning your money. With stock ownership, you have a claim to a portion of the profits of the company. If a company has 10 million shares outstanding and makes a profit of $20 million, then the profit per share (also called the earnings per share or EPS) is $2.
So if you own 100 shares, you have ‘claim’ to $200 in profits. Now, companies almost never pay out all their earnings to their stockholders. Usually they will pay a portion of their earnings to shareholders as dividends. Some don’t pay dividends at all. The profits not paid out as dividends are reinvested in the company.

Presumably, those reinvested earnings benefit the stockholders too, in the sense that they will help grow the company and increase the earnings power of the company. The future value of the company will be greater because of the increased future earnings and the stockholder will be compensated with increased market value of his shares of stock.
Thus, we will treat all of the company’s earnings, even those that are reinvested in the company, as income to us, the shareholders. So, to determine the fair price of a stock, we compare its price to the earnings per share (EPS). We divide the price by EPS to get the Price to Earnings ratio or P/E ratio.

The higher a P/E ratio is, the less current earnings the company has for each dollar we invest. So if we were to invest in a company with a P/E of 20, for each dollar we spend to buy stock, we will only get half as much earnings as if the stock had a P/E of 10. Therefore, we want to find and buy portions of companies that have lower P/E ratios. But how high is too high? Here I will give a brief explanation, but see my post on P/E ratios for a more in-depth explanation.

When you are investing in stocks, you value the stocks based on the future income of the company. To find a fair value for those stocks, though, you need to compare that future income to the future income you could get by just sticking the money in a safe U.S. government bond. Since stocks are riskier than government bonds, the earnings yield on the stock (E/P, the inverse of the P/E ratio) should be higher than the yield on a medium term government bond (let’s say with a 5 year maturity).

Medium-term government bonds are yielding about 5% right now, so if we had a perfectly safe stock investment, we would not mind getting a 5% earnings yield (which translates into a P/E of 20). However, stocks are less safe than corporate bonds, which are less safe than government bonds. Therefore, we want to be paid a risk premium for owning stocks. A 2% risk premium is enough for us to consider a stock a good value.

Therefore, stocks that are neither increasing nor decreasing their profits should be a fair value at around a P/E of 14 (and an E/P of 7%). However, because we are value investors, we do not want to pay fair value. Rather, we want to pay below fair value. Therefore, it is a good rule of thumb to avoid companies without significant earnings growth with a P/E over 10. For companies with significant earnings growth, a P/E below 20 should be fine. But, as with buying anything, the cheaper we can buy a good product (in this case, a company), the better.

When we buy something at a price less than it is worth, we give ourselves a margin of safety. That way, we are protected from losing a lot of money should we err in our estimation of the quality of a company. If we were to invest in companies that seemed to be selling at a fair value, we would be at greater risk of losing money if our estimation of the company’s value turned out to be wrong.

Disclosure: I hold no shares of any companies mentioned herein. See the disclosure policy.

An ETF Asset Allocation Plan for Everyone

If I have not said it much before, I will certainly say it in the future: the best way to invest is with low-cost index mutual funds or low cost index ETFs. I like Vanguard, but it is even cheaper to get an account at Zecco.com and then invest in low-cost ETFs. They give you a certain number of free trades per month which is more than adequate for a long-term buy-and-hold investor. What I suggest below is not quite as simple as one of Vanguard’s excellent low-cost target date funds (see The Default Investment), but it will give you a portfolio that is more appropriate for your individual circumstances.

In the article on the default investment, I suggested talking to a financial planner if you wanted a tailor-made portfolio. However, the problem with financial planners is that they cost a lot of money relative to investable assets, particularly if you are not rich. A couple hundred dollars an hour or .5% of invested assets adds up quickly if you have a small portfolio. So for those with under a few hundred thousand dollars, it may be best to go it alone. You will need to first determine your risk tolerance. Buy Index Funds: The 12-Step Program for Active Investors; this book will help you think through how much risk you can handle. There are also 20 sample portfolios in the appendix for all different risk profiles. Those portfolios are designed for DFA mutual funds (which can only be accessed through a financial advisor). So I found suitable ETF substitutes for those funds and they are listed below along with their ticker and annual expense ratio. So buy the book, choose an appropriate portfolio for the amount of risk you can handle, get an account with Zecco, and then buy the following ETFs in the proportions recommended for your risk profile in the book. You will pay very few fees, your portfolios will be tax-efficient, and you will not have to think very much about your investments.

US Large Company: Vanguard Large Cap (VV), 0.07%
US Large Cap Value: Vanguard Value (VTV or VIVAX), 0.11%

US Microcap Index: iShares Russell Microcap Index (IWC), 0.60%
US Small Cap Value Index: Rydex S&P Smallcap 600 Pure Value (RZV), 0.35% or Vanguard Smallcap Value (VBR), 0.12%

Real Estate Index: Vanguard REIT ETF (VNQ), 0.12%

International Value Index: iShares MSCI EAFE Value Index (EFV), 0.40%
International Small Company Index: SPDR International Small Cap (GWX), 0.60%
International Small Value Index: WisdomTree Small Cap Dividend Fund (DLS), 0.58%

Emerging Markets Index: Vanguard Emerging Markets Index (VWO), 0.30%
Emerging Markets Value Index: WisdomTree Emerging Markets High-Yielding Equity (DEM), 0.63%
Emerging Markets Small-Cap Index: WisdomTree Emerging Markets Small-Cap Dividend Fund (DGS), 0.63%

One-Year Fixed Income Index: (see below)
Two-Year Global Fixed Income Index:
Five-Year Government Income Index:
Five-Year Global Fixed Income Index:

There are no funds that are very close to the above, but you can use different weights on Vanguard’s bond funds to approximate the average duration of the mix of the above funds. Vanguard Short-Term Bond Index (BSV), 0.11%, has an average maturity of 2.7 years, while Vanguard Intermediate-Term Bond Index (BIV), 0.11%, has an average maturity of 5.7 years. Both are invested primarily in Treasury and government agency securities. For very-short term bonds (or just buying government bonds of any maturity), you could enroll in Treasury Direct and buy 1-year treasuries direct from the US Government. If you hold them to maturity you pay no fees.

I see no great need to invest in foreign bonds, considering the safety of the Vanguard funds. While more diversification is good, there is a limit to how safe something can get–and it doesn’t get much safer than one to five year government and AAA-rated bonds. So if Index Funds says that you should have 10% in each of the four bond categories, your weighted-average maturity would be 3.3 years. So you could put 10% of your investable assets in 1-year bonds through Treasury Direct, 15% in the Vanguard Short-Term Bond Index, and 15% in the Vanguard Intermediate-Term Bond Index. This gives you an average maturity of 3.4 years.

When investing in these ETFs, you should rebalance every year. You could also choose to put a portion of your funds in one or more of Vanguard’s target date funds and then just add on the extra funds (value, small-cap) to the main target date fund. Then you would not have to rebalance as often.

If you follow the above plan, you should expect to outperform 80% of other investors, because they will incur more taxes and more fees. You will also end up with investments tailored to your unique circumstances. And you will only have to think about your investments once a year. This sounds like a good deal to me.